Cheonggycheong Stream

I'd love to see Cheonggycheong in the summer, at night, when it transforms into a Korean version of Fantasmic. Light shows, live music and crowds in metropolitan Seoul! But we chose to beat the crowds crossing the stream in the dead of winter. Sunset was still striking under the bridge.

Everyday Korean Food

From my first morning in Korea, I had my doubts about the food. Fish for breakfast? Seaweed?!

My provincial palate was about to get a rude awakening. Food was fishy. And spicy. But in a different way than the jalapeños and habañeros I'm used to.

But this appetizer -- taken in Gail's cozy studio apartment (literally cozy: the floors were heated) --was just the beginning.