Traditional Korean Tea House

We escaped the snow and ditched our boots to sit on the floor and enjoy hot tea at this cozy spot. For the record, the papaya tea meant to cure a hoarse throat didn't work.

Octopus Soup

I didn't think I would mind eating octopus in a soup. So I accepted when Gail proposed such a dinner. Little did I know I would watch the innocent creature's cruel death. Then I'd eat it.

Cheonggycheong Stream

I'd love to see Cheonggycheong in the summer, at night, when it transforms into a Korean version of Fantasmic. Light shows, live music and crowds in metropolitan Seoul! But we chose to beat the crowds crossing the stream in the dead of winter. Sunset was still striking under the bridge.

Everyday Korean Food

From my first morning in Korea, I had my doubts about the food. Fish for breakfast? Seaweed?!

My provincial palate was about to get a rude awakening. Food was fishy. And spicy. But in a different way than the jalapeños and habañeros I'm used to.

But this appetizer -- taken in Gail's cozy studio apartment (literally cozy: the floors were heated) --was just the beginning.